Butterick skirt B5466

I was inspired by a few things this last week or so to make Butterick skirt B5466 (version D). I initially pulled it out of my pattern collection for Amy. Then remembering Jessie’s  denim business casual skirt from January’s monthly challenge and realising I had about a meter of stretch denim left over from the Clover capri’s I made a few weeks ago, I thought why not?


I have a lot of lovely blouses I’ve made, in great prints, but as my office frowns upon jeans, I don’t often wear them. Instead I mostly wear my dresses. I’ve been meaning for a while to make a few simple bottom pieces so my blouses will come out of the closet and the idea of of cute pencil skirt in denim seems just right. Obviously the pattern doesn’t call for denim, in fact it calls for fabrics like broadcloth, satin, poplin and tweed. But  as that fabric I have is quite light weight, I think I’ll get away with it.

Also have you noticed that Butterwick sizes are incredibly small? Ie a 28″ waist requires you to make a size 14. Maybe it’s just been a while since I made one of the Big Four patterns? Looking through my patterns now I’ve found quite an array of sizes that a 28″ waist will make. Anyway I decided that as the fabric as about 5% stretch I’m not going to make the 14 and if I recall from the last time I made it, I fitted an 8 (thought that was years ago) I’m often to work with the size 12.

It’s a wonderfully simple pattern to cut out, just six pieces. But it I  always find it funny to start a sewing project by inserting the zipper. It feels like I’ve missed out about 10 steps. But with version D, you really do start with the zipper. Ok technically the back seam, then zipper. But I’m putting an invisible zipper in (not a normal one) so already I’m deviating from the instructions.

IMG_9741My invisible zippers often aren’t entirely invisible. I don’t have an invisible zipper foot and make do with my normal foot. But I am pretty dam pleased with how invisible this one has turned out. Except for the bottom of the zip it is indeed invisible!

Seeing as next month’s challenge is seams and March is looking pretty busy already, I’m doubting I’ll get much sewing in. So I thought I’d show you how I did the seams on the skirt. The pattern doesnt call for anything special and I’ve been debating whether I should do French seams, or felt seams, or just normal (ie with zigzags and pinking shears) or lazy (ie just with pinking shears).

I decided to go with the French seams. The fabric frays pretty fierce and as this is going to be very fitted and I imagine the seams are going to be under a touch of strain, it seemed wise to have them well and truly reinforced. I also didn’t want the visible stitches of a felted seam. They are perhaps a touch more bulky than I would have liked, in hindsight I should have gone for the felted seams. But its not too bad that I feel the need to unpick it. In total there are 6 seams plus the centre back (which I can’t do as a French seam because of the zipper – unless anyone’s got a trick  to this?). Which means essentially sewing 12 seams which takes quite a long time.

I had initially planned to do a blind hem, but with the French seams it was too bulky. So it was just a normal old hem, using pinking shears along the bottom edge and turned up only once. And it was very straight if I do say so myself.

So not bad for an afternoons work:


What’s inspiring you these days?


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