I’ve been wanting a nice little blouse with pin tucks on a yoke insert for ages. I’ve yet to find a pattern for it. But when I was rummaging though my patterns last week, I pulled out Simplicity 2363. While it’s a dress pattern, I’ve adapted it a few times to make it a blouse. This time I thought I could add a few pin tucks to the yoke and viol-la! I love the cut of this pattern, the princess seams and upper front really suit me and I’m always so comfortable in it (both the dresses I’ve made and the tops). I figured I’d make short sleeves to go with it, as summer seems to well and truly be gone.
As the upper front is the first thing that you sew, I jumped straight into my pin tucks. And encountered my inability to work out the maths of how much fabric I needed to add to my pattern piece to make a 1/4″ pin tuck. I knew how to sew it, but I could not for the life of me add up how much fabric I needed to add.
Enter my husband. After I explained what a pin tuck was and how it worked, he worked out how much extra fabric I needed. But as is often the way, all that calculation went out the window.
I ended up sewing what I intended to be the pin tucks on my initial piece of fabric and then cut out the pattern pieces from it. For convenience sake I ended up make the pin tucks a presser foot width, ie 1/2″ wide, not exactly pin tuck size is it? And I made them right next to each other, so they are almost over lapping. The result is great, I love it, but I’m not sure I could call them pin tucks. Perhaps pleats – but then you dont normally sew pleats down their entire length do you? They took quite a while to do, but I actually really enjoyed the process.
The other alteration I made to the pattern (other than chopping the length off it) was to reduce the amount of fabric in the centre back and front, so there is less of a gather. Which I think has worked quite well.
Inserting the sleeves proved to be quite awkward. I think perhaps I failed to place the front and back side pieces in the correct place against the centre pieces, which in turn threw the shoulders off. Either way, they were awkward to pin and sew. There are a few tucks were there shouldn’t be around the arm hold, but I won’t point them out 😉
All in all I am actually really pleased with the top. I love my NOT pin tucks, its terribly comfortable and looks pretty good. My only fear is it will get rather wrinkled in my bag when I cycle to work tomorrow. Fingers crossed, these fall out as the day progresses.