Laurel

Here’s one off my autumn/winter wardrobe wish list: another Laurel version 1 (I already have 2).

I used a cotton lawns from my stash (still working through my haul from the Knitting and Stitching show) and some anti-static lining I picked up on Thursday.

I love this dress – the simplicity of the shape makes it great for showing off fantastic prints. And with the underlining, it’s  the perfect winter dress to put over tights.

My previous versions however have always come out a bit bigger than ideal (ie I don’t even need to use the zipper – I just pull them over my head). So this time I really mixed it up. I used size 2 for bust and above, grading out to the size 4 at the top side notches. According to my measurements I am a size 2 for bust (34″) and somewhere between a 6 and 8 for waist and hip (28.5″ and 38.5″ respectively) but these have always been too roomy.

IMG_2611
My new dart placement.

Also I always find the apex of Colette’s darts way too high and long (essentially if I follow the pattern that apex ends up an inch or so higher than my nipple and can even go right on past it, edging to the centre of my sternum!).

So using the size 8 as a guide, I then dropped the apex by an inch. In the past this has worked for me on various Colette blouses and dresses. I also chose to use size 2 on the back darts.

I often struggle a little with underlining, I think mostly because I’m not so accurate cutting out the underlining pieces, plus they are so slippery they always seem to be more where I dont want them. Also I do most of my work on the carpeted floor (for lack of any other surface space) which makes it hard to adjust the pieces. This time I lay the underlining over my fabric,  on top of the smooth fibre board G. got me for pattern cutting. This makes it sooo much easier to get the two pieces to match perfectly.

That being said, I always forget how long it takes to align and attached the underling to the main fabric. So it took me most of my sewing time on Saturday to get to the point were I could actually start sewing the dress.

The pattern is dead easy to follow and it comes together really quick (after the interlining is attached that it). This version of it has come out beautifully! I’m so glad I chose this pattern for the print  and all my pears match up too! My mixing and matching of sizes worked out quite well. I’m much happier with this fit than previous version – although I may use a size 4 for the armholes next time as they are slightly snugger than I generally like.

Now I just need to get started on my next one. I have all the fabric and notions and might as well get started while the pattern pieces are still nicely ironed!

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