A collision of patterns

I recently discovered that I have very few smart, winter appropriate, me-made blouses. Packing for a trip last week to Geneva for work I was horrified to discover I literally had nothing to wear. Ok maybe not nothing. I wasn’t stark naked for the week. But it highlighted a definite gap in my wardrobe. And as this month’s challenge over at the Monthly Stitch is  the Capsule Wardrobe  I thought my first item would be a work blouse (bottoms of some sort to follow).

I love the clean, simple design of the Sorbetto blouse  which I first made back in June for one of the IPM2015 challenges. But it needs sleeves to be seasonal. Having recently made a few of Colette’s Laurel dresses whose 3/4 sleeves I loved – it seemed only natural to add these sleeves to the Sorbetto blouse. And then as I loved the curved hem from Deer&Doe’s Datura blouse, I figured I’d  have that too. So I lengthened and curve the hem. Its a right collision of patterns.

IMG_2707I’ve been trying to draw out my ideas -partly to practice drawing but also to work out some is  of the practicalities. This drawing business is still very much in its infancy. But this is the idea I had in my head….

I spent Saturday afternoon copying and overlaying the various pattern pieces to bring these three bits together. I was a little nervous about the changes I made to the armholes and whether I had redrawn them adequately enough to match the sleeves. I had also subsequently redrawn the darts (not in picture) as the apex of Colette patterns is always in the wrong spot.

I chose some fabric from my stash, a lovely dusky pink cotton fabric I got in Japan (the same type of cotton I made my first Sorbetto from). I made up the body of the shirt on Sunday – if you’ve made the Sorbetto, you know how ridiculously quick it is. I used French seams to join the shoulders and sides and did a pretty good job if I do say so myself.

IMG_2718I decided to pair this with some contrasting bias binding to add a touch of character. After checking my fabric remnants and not finding anything I liked, nor any ready I liked at at the shop, I ended up finding the perfect fabric at Ray Stitch to make my own. So on Monday evening I made my bias binding and added it to the sleeves.

This is when I held my breath… I now needed to join the sleeves to the arm holes. Had my alterations to the armholes been sufficient to fit with the sleeves? They fit in beautifully and when I tried it on it felt pretty good too. The edge of the shoulder perhaps is a little off my shoulder but I thought I’d continue. So I added the bias binding to the neckline and then tried it on again. But it wasn’t quite right as you can see from the pictures below.

So I un-stitched about an inch and a half of the bias binding at the centre back  and put in a small pleat, in an effort to pull the shoulders in a little. I then hand-stitched the bias binding back on. It looked great. Then I realised I’d made the pleat on the wrong side. I emitted a small, pitiful howl. Before un-stiching the bias binding again, redoing pleat, and re stitching (by hand) the bias bind. But I think the effect is much better. There is something slightly off about the fit in the back, but it also might just be my posture in the photos…

I finished the top by using bias binding on the hem which helps with the curves (and will look very cute if the wind blows my shirt!).

And vol-lia, a brand new top. The sleeves are perhaps a touch more gathered at the shoulders then I would normally like, but I’m going to overlook it for the time beings! Now I just need to makes some bottoms and my Capsule Wardrobe will be complete.


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