A collision of patterns

18 Nov

I recently discovered that I have very few smart, winter appropriate, me-made blouses. Packing for a trip last week to Geneva for work I was horrified to discover I literally had nothing to wear. Ok maybe not nothing. I wasn’t stark naked for the week. But it highlighted a definite gap in my wardrobe. And as this month’s challenge over at the Monthly Stitch is  the Capsule Wardrobe  I thought my first item would be a work blouse (bottoms of some sort to follow).

I love the clean, simple design of the Sorbetto blouse  which I first made back in June for one of the IPM2015 challenges. But it needs sleeves to be seasonal. Having recently made a few of Colette’s Laurel dresses whose 3/4 sleeves I loved – it seemed only natural to add these sleeves to the Sorbetto blouse. And then as I loved the curved hem from Deer&Doe’s Datura blouse, I figured I’d  have that too. So I lengthened and curve the hem. Its a right collision of patterns.

IMG_2707I’ve been trying to draw out my ideas -partly to practice drawing but also to work out some is  of the practicalities. This drawing business is still very much in its infancy. But this is the idea I had in my head….

I spent Saturday afternoon copying and overlaying the various pattern pieces to bring these three bits together. I was a little nervous about the changes I made to the armholes and whether I had redrawn them adequately enough to match the sleeves. I had also subsequently redrawn the darts (not in picture) as the apex of Colette patterns is always in the wrong spot. It looks like this (black is the original Sorbetto pattern lines and the green is the additions):

I chose some fabric from my stash, a lovely dusky pink cotton fabric I got in Japan (the same type of cotton I made my first Sorbetto from). I made up the body of the shirt on Sunday – if you’ve made the Sorbetto, you know how ridiculously quick it is. I used French seams to join the shoulders and sides and did a pretty good job if I do say so myself.

IMG_2718I decided to pair this with some contrasting bias binding to add a touch of character. After checking my fabric remnants and not finding anything I liked, nor any ready I liked at at the shop, I ended up finding the perfect fabric at Ray Stitch to make my own. So on Monday evening I made my bias binding and added it to the sleeves.

This is when I held my breath… I now needed to join the sleeves to the arm holes. Had my alterations to the armholes been sufficient to fit with the sleeves? They fit in beautifully and when I tried it on it felt pretty good too. The edge of the shoulder perhaps is a little off my shoulder but I thought I’d continue. So I added the bias binding to the neckline and then tried it on again. But it wasn’t quite right as you can see from the pictures below.

So I un-stitched about an inch and a half of the bias binding at the centre back  and put in a small pleat, in an effort to pull the shoulders in a little. I then hand-stitched the bias binding back on. It looked great. Then I realised I’d made the pleat on the wrong side. I emitted a small, pitiful howl. Before un-stiching the bias binding again, redoing pleat, and re stitching (by hand) the bias bind. But I think the effect is much better. There is something slightly off about the fit in the back, but it also might just be my posture in the photos…

I finished the top by using bias binding on the hem which helps with the curves (and will look very cute if the wind blows my shirt!).

And vol-lia, a brand new top. The sleeves are perhaps a touch more gathered at the shoulders then I would normally like, but I’m going to overlook it for the time beings! Now I just need to makes some bottoms and my Capsule Wardrobe will be complete.


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4 Responses to “A collision of patterns”

  1. navybluethreads November 20, 2015 at 4:34 pm #

    Very pretty bias-binding trim, we’ll done for making this work!


    • rosemary November 20, 2015 at 4:54 pm #

      Thank you! I love it when the ideas in my head actually become reality, there is such a sense of accomplishment!

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Linda of Nice dress! Thanks, I made it!! November 23, 2015 at 3:17 am #

    Looks cute on you! You put a lot of effort into it so I’m happy it turned out! I have a bias binding maker but haven’t used it yet, as I was given a few packages of binding and have to go through that yet.


    • rosemary November 23, 2015 at 8:05 am #

      Thank Linda. It took me a little while to get the hang of my bias binding maker, but now that I have I really love it.

      Liked by 1 person

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