I started this project to just test the size of my new Biscayne blouse pattern from hey June and practice a few new features (invisible button placket and welt pocket), before cutting into some really gorgeous new fabric. But it turned out well enough that I decided to finish it up and stick it in the closet!
Its a cotton lawn fabric I got on ebay years ago to make a dress for my BFF and the bountiful leftovers have been sitting on the shelf ever since. Biscayne came as a PDF pattern which normally I avoid like the plague, but it was really easy to tape together. Plus I had some lovely Swedish tracing paper which the Village Haberdashery sent me for free with another order.
Luckily there is an online sew-along which I could check out – especially useful when trying new things! I was exceptionally careful in marking my plackets and the very detailed instructions and corresponding illustrations really did make all the difference. As the fabric is such a light color and my interfacing is white, it was quite easier to transfer the markings . Finishing the placket gave me a real sense of achievement, its been a while since I challenged myself and tried something new. I’m quite pleased with it, though I had a little trouble tucking the tail of the placket in nicely. And although I struggled to get the folds of the welt pocket to meet perfectly in the middle, it’s not so noticeable thanks to the design of the fabric.
There are only two niggling things I’m not pleased about with this wearable muslin. The first is my gathering on the front it a bit bunched , so in places it looks like the fabric has been accidentally tucked, rather than gathered. Second is that when I planned to make a muslin, I hadn’t expected to finish it so didnt have any matching thread to hand. The closest I had was a gray – not too bad, but still I’d prefer a closer match.
The pattern suggests choosing your side based on your bust measurements and if you’re in between the sizes, to size down. So I went with size small. While this fits perfectly over the shoulders, bust and waist, I found it much to small at the hips. So as I sewed the side seam, I graded from a 5/8″ to a 3/8″ seam allowance. On my next version I’ll grade out the the size medium at the hips.
Final verdict: I love this pattern and cant wait to get going on the next one!