The real deal – Biscayne blouse

As soon as I saw the Yucca – Manu Forest fabric I knew I had to have it. I’ve never used voile and as I was lusting after the fabric online, I couldn’t be sure what it actually felt like. So I looked for patterns that specifically referenced using it. Then I came across the Biscayne blouse from hey June, which I figured would be perfect with a cardigan in autumn/winter. I loved the simplicity of the design plus I’d learn a few new techniques as I’ve never made a hidden button placket or a welt pocket. I decided to be diligent and make a wearable muslin of the small to check fit and practice the new techniques before using my precious new fabric.  I’m glad I did – while the small is a perfect fit for most of the blouse, I really need to grade out to a medium at the hips. Plus its always good to practice new things before using your favorite new fabric.

I really took my time cutting out my pieces  and was surprised to discover that with creative placement of pattern pieces, I needed much less that the required 2 metres. While my fabric is 44″ wide I only used  1.5 metres. I considered the layout for quite a while –  to ensure optimal flower placement, and cutting out the placket piece so that it wouldn’t jar too much with the centre front.

I was exceptionally careful in marking my plackets but it was hard to transfer precise markings onto the black fabric, as my white marker doesnt have a fine tip. In the end I had to rely on measuring the distances between each fold line. It wasn’t perfect, and I had to adjust it a few times to get it to overlap nicely. My welt pocket however came together much better than last time, and I’m quite pleased with it this time.

I put in three rows of gathering stitches, in hot pink so I could pick them out easily later on. And this time I managed to get the gathering right – no snags! Do you sometimes find that by sewing very slowly and carefully, your project actually comes together much quicker? That’s how it felt with this top.  I’m really pleased with the overall fit – I used size small for most of the top, grading out to medium at the hips.

I  love the fabric and I love the design – its turned out exactly as I pictured it in my mind.




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