Granville Shirt Take Two

My entry for week three of Indie Pattern Month (one pattern, two ways) is the Granville Shirt from Sewaholic. I made this pattern first last month and despite a few sizing issues (which I’ll talk about below) I knew it was going to be a favorite pattern. It also works perfectly in continuing my quest for work wear, because although the plaid is more casual it definitely will work for office wear and the green will be for special meetings and events.

Last time I made it (size 12 for bust, 10 for waist and 8 for hips) the shoulders and arms came out much too big (the arms comically so). This time I did a bit of research before getting started and found ‘aspiring thread’s’ blog on the Granville Shirt especially useful.  In her blog she points out that Sewaholic’s patterns are made for a B cut and assumes that the full bust will be just 2 inches bigger that the upper bust (but my measurements have my full bust is 38″ and upper bust 34.5″). So this time I decided to cut a size 10 for bust (and do a full bust adjustment) and waist, and size 8 for hips.

I’ve only done a FBA twice before so I tried out Jenny Rushmore’s Full ‘Bust Adjustment for Any Pattern‘ on Cratsy. It was the first time I’ve used Crafsy and if this tutorial was anything to go by, it is fantastic! I first did the FBA on the plaid version and while the fit across the upper and full bust is perfect, I realised the darts are perhaps 1/2 inch too low, resulting in a little bit of excess fabric on the lower ‘side boob’ – I changed this on the green version and am super happy with the result.

It’s worth taking a moment to talk about cutting out the plaid version cause let me tell you this did my nut in! Sewaholic has a great tutorial on cutting and matching your plaids on the Granville, which I faithfull follow. Starting with the front piece I spent ages meticulously working out how to best position my pieces so the horizontal and vertical lines would match. And I was so pleased when I got the centre front lines to match perfectly. Of course I then realised that the horizonal lines were 100% out!

My dyslexic brain nearly went into melt down trying to puzzle how to get it all the match up (the sleeve plackets did in fact lead to full on shut down – staring numbly and these peices of fabric without the fainest idea how I ever thought they would match!). But in the end, I mostly triumphed. I’ve never been so careful in cutting out (note to self it really does make a difference!). And I am sp pleased with the matching across the front, the sides and on the back panels. I didn’t manage to make the back yoke (cut on bias) match up, it seemed like a step too far. Maybe next time?

The crepe version was , I hsould admit, a nightmare to cut, pin and sew if I’m honest. The fabric just wasn’t pleasant to work with. I had bought a second piece of this fabric in aubergine, which while I was in the process of sewing, I decided I probably wouldnt use for the Granville shirt after all. But having seen the final deal, it looks soooo good, I am tempted by this devilish fabric once again. The buttons, I think really add some style to the shirt (they’re from Raystitch).


Anyway more over on the Monthly Stitch if you’re interested!



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