Tag Archives: Menswear

Jedediah pants!

25 May

It was with much trepidation that I embarked on the Jedediah pants from Thread Theory.  as part of G.’s Christmas present I had promised him a pair. I found some nice black babycord (from Truro fabric) which G liked – when it arrived it felt a bit lighter than I had expected but I think it will make a nice pair of summer weight trousers. Because I was a bit daunted, after I had the pieces all cut I left it sitting in the middle of the living room for over a week! I actually had them mostly sewn up in April but the man was away and I wanted him to try them on so I could perfect the length.

I’ve only made one Thread Theory pattern before (the Fairfield Button Up Shirt) and really liked her instructions. But for these pants/trousers I found them a little hard to follow at times. Especially for the fly – the corresponding images aren’t always next to the instructions and  maybe I was having a brain-fart day but I found it hard to to figure out what I was suppose to do.  I have to say I didn’t find the YouTube video which accompanied the sew-along much help for the fly – it didn’t have the level of detail I needed.  In the end my fly is actually quite good although my top stitching is appalling. But the man is unlikely to notice and on the black fabric its almost impossible to tell. It would also have been nice if there had been a top stitching guide for the the fly  as well as marks for where it is best to place the button loops.

That being said I did like the way the waist band facing was put in and the added detail of having contrast binding. Again it took me a little while to get my head around what I was suppose to do, but it worked out pretty well. With practice I’m sure I’ll make some really nice pants/trousers in the future. I’m thinking some nice chinos in burgundy or a royal blue. I made the size 40 which is the biggest size the pattern goes up to – they fit a bit smaller than RTW trousers and at the waist they are a bit of a squeeze. Because the waist button will be taking so much pressure I decided to add a hook and bar. Next time I may make the waist a wee bit bigger – I think I’ll be able to get some breathing room by simply reducing the seam allowance on the side seams.

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When you really love something…

29 Mar

The first shirt I ever made G. was McCall’s 6044 in a blue poplin with white spots. I was super proud of it at the time and G loved it. Seven years later he still loves it but I look at it with horror  – all I can see are the mistakes, the poor stitching, terrible choice in buttons etc. But it’s been wearing thin and just the other week it literally fell apart. But it is G’s favorite shirt and, when you really love something…. he  wanted an exact replica. Luckily the poplin is pretty bog-standard and available in almost every haberdashery.

This time I was extra careful with my top stitching, used flat fell seams for almost everything and chose simple white buttons. And he’s over the moon to have his favorite shirt back. Having made this shirt so many times there really isn’t anything new I can say about it. It’s a great pattern, but I’m looking forward to trying something new next time.

Fairfield Button-up Shirt

9 Mar

Second on my list of Christmas presents I’ve made for my nearest and dearest this year is the Fairfiled Button-up shirt from Thread Theory.  I’m a little behind  in getting these finished I must admit! One is for my father-in-law and the other is for my BFF’s boyfriend. fairfield-buttonup-illustrationsIt’s the first time I’ve used a Thread Theory pattern but I really liked the look of the design and the end results I’ve seen floating round the blogosphere. I decided to make version both versions: one with the back darts and one with the gathers.

Both men ended up choosing a interweave cotton chambray fabric from Dragonfly Fabrics. Plus BFF’s boy asked if there could be a splash of red on the inside, so I chose a cherry crimson chambray (from Minerva crafts) for the lining of the collar band and cuffs. The interweave is a little bit heavier than other chambray but I hope it will soften with wear and be quite nice.

In terms of the pattern: I love it. It has both a regular and a large fit, ie good for those supper skinny bean poles and for the more well endowed men. And it really is such a great design.The instructions were super clear and really well laid out.  I loved the ‘burrito’ technique for the shoulder seams which leaves no raw edges or stitching visible! It was the first time I’d ever come across this technique and by carefully following the instructions it came out excellently. I also really appreciated the clarity on how to do the sleeve placket. I’ve only tried this once before and really struggled  but this time my results are pretty smooth.

On my first version however (the one with the red facing) I  slightly f*cked up on the sleeve and side seams. Because I was running low on my matching thread I decided to just use French seams instead of flat fell seams. So without reading the instructions I jumped straight in and did them on a 5/8″ seam allowance. But when it came round for the second shirt I realized that oh no the seam allowance on the shirt back and sleeve back was just 1/4″ while on the front it was 5/8″ and that the seam allowance had already been offset. Which i think means that on the first version i did the back of the shirt and sleeves will be pulling tight. I hummed and hawed for a while on this and decided that as it was all finished and ready to be posted, I’d let him try it on first before unpicking the lot.  I did however get it right on the second version. And the detail of the stitching I am quite pleased with.

In summary: I love this pattern, the instructions are great and the design is lovely. It takes a while to cut out but it is definitely worth it!

Version 1 with back pleat:

Version 2 with back darts:

 

 

#makemenswear

3 Dec

G. has been after me to make him some new shirts for a few months now. To be fair most of his shirts that I’ve made him (which now dominate his wardrobe) have been patched and mended and re-patched and re-mended. He really is in need of some new shirts.

As McCall’s 6044 is tried and tested and much loved, I really see no reason to try a different pattern. As usual I’ve made version C, this time out of an indgo cotton chambray from Dragonfly Fabrics. The fabric washed really well and feels very soft.

There isn’t too much to say about the construction of the shirt – the pattern is quite straightforward and instructions are easy to follow. I used French Seams on the sleeves and sides, and flat felled seams on the shoulders. I tried to infused a little creativity by using a different fabric for the facing of the collar band and cuffs. The chambray bird print I used to make my McCalls 4769 dress seemed complimentary to the polka dot both in color and texture.  But I forgot to change my bobbin to a light blue, so the stitching is very obvious on the inside. But I still think it looks pretty good. I think one of my New Year’s resolution will be to branch out from the staple men’s shirt and make more menswear (#makemenswear).

 

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